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When something moves from being a buzzword to becoming part of everyday lexicon, it’s an indication that a foothold has been firmly established. This is the case with sustainability. At one time thought to be an issue for a small subset of consumers, it has moved into the mainstream, fueled by those determined to reduce their environmental impact. As a result, manufacturers of all kinds began jumping on board, touting sustainability claims that in some instances amounted to little more than greenwashing.
But today’s consumers are more educated and discerning, demanding greater transparency and verification about how products are made and what goes into them — attention that is inspiring the next generation of materials providers to develop authentically sustainable alternatives that withstand such scrutiny. Specialty Fabrics Review spoke to five bio-based manufacturers that have brought products to market, exploring the various offerings and how the bio-based materials industry has changed over time.
Beyond faux fur
Kym Canter wore a lot of fur when she worked in the fashion industry. But eventually, the founder of BIOFUR® became uncomfortable with that choice, opting instead for faux fur. Still, even that change was discomforting when she learned that those materials contained petrochemicals and other unappealing additives. Determined to find a better solution, one that married an authentic feel with sustainability, Canter launched the company in 2023.
Headquartered in New York City, N.Y., BIOFUR offers alternative fur products under the brand names of BIOSherpa®, BIO PLUSH, MOUTON BIO, BIOBunny and BIO Ultra Soft. The animal-free fabrics are 98% bio-based, contain no petrochemicals and are 100% industrially compostable.
The fabrics are made from polymers of lactide extracted from non-GMO corn and include polylactic acid, which serves as a natural replacement for polyester or recycled polyester, says Canter.
Because the fabrics aren’t petroleum-based, they shed no microplastics when washed. They have thermal regulation properties and are hypoallergenic and quick drying. Canter describes MOUTON BIO as having the appearance of a shearling and BIOSherpa and BIOBunny as mimicking the look of fleece and bunny fur, respectively. BIO Ultra Soft comes in two versions: one with curly hair and one with longer, straighter hair.
Bringing alternative products to market presents multiple challenges. One of the biggest challenges Canter says she faced was finding partners who could embrace her animal- and plastic-free vision. Additionally, the material had to be made on existing machines and priced comparably to its traditional counterparts. Eventually, the team came together, with Senbis Polymer Innovations B.V. in the Netherlands providing the science knowledge; China-based mill partner Nice Grain; and Concept III, a fabric development company headquartered in Red Bank, N.J.
Canter says BIOFUR’s materials have multiple applications, including home furnishings, children’s clothing and fashion. The company currently is in discussion with numerous brands and is actively seeking global partnerships in all sectors.
Vegan-inspired
When Zimri T. Hinshaw, founder and CEO of Rheom Materials, was a military kid living with his parents in Japan, he fell in love with a leather jacket, one with decidedly streetwear appeal, says Megan Beck-Martinez, director of product for the company. But Hinshaw was a vegan; wearing leather was off the table. Moving back to the U.S. to attend college, he began thinking about how he could circumvent this issue. Thus, in 2020, Rheom arrived on the scene.
The first product introduced into the market from the Houston, Texas-based company was Shorai™, a leather alternative derived from fermented products, biomass and plant-based inputs. It comes in several versions, ranging from 78%–91% bio-based. That fermentation process creates a material the company can compound into a resin or pellet, which then can be made into an end product. The material is made on existing machinery, eliminating the need to develop new equipment.
Shorai comes in 60-inch-wide rolls in a variety of textures. Currently, the production run is in black, but the company is working to offer more in-house colors. Custom colors require a minimum order.
Material manufacturing is U.S.-based; ingredients are sourced overseas. The company has been primarily working with fashion and accessories companies in Canada, Germany and India. However, for the past several years, Rheom has been in development with the U.S. and European automotive industries. And with its newest water-resistant/abrasion-resistant Shorai formulation, Rheom is targeting footwear and is in discussion with several U.S. brands.
Fabricators benefit from Shorai’s ability to be cut and sewn like any fabric or traditional leather, requiring no major production changes, says Beck-Martinez. Additionally, unlike actual leather, there’s no need to scissor around imperfections, so the yield is greater.
“Demand has been building for the past few years, especially as the impact of synthetic materials gets more attention,” she says. “Consumers, especially Gen Zers, are starting to vote with their dollars.”
Applying biology and science
Founded in 2011 and headquartered in Pine Brook, N.J., Modern Meadow creates high-performance, lower-impact materials through the application of biology and material science, says CEO Dave Williamson. One such product is INNOVERA™. The animal-leather alternative is made from plant-based proteins, biopolymers and recycled rubber and contains more than 80% renewable carbon content.
Williamson describes the high-tensile strength, tear-resistant material as “mechanically stronger” compared to many traditional leathers, while also being lighter weight. Suede-like or full-grain versions are available, all of which allow INNOVERA to maintain the draping, feel and touch essential to premium applications, he says.
“It’s designed to work within existing post-tanning and finishing infrastructure, which helps make adoption more practical,” Williamson explains. “Because it is produced in a more controlled roll-based process, it offers a more uniform material than hides, which can help reduce variation and improve material utilization.”
Presently, Modern Meadow is targeting automotive and footwear, seeing INNOVERA as a strong fit for these sectors. But Williamson thinks furniture, interiors and fashion accessories also have good potential. The company also works with tanneries, brands and manufacturers seeking a material with a leather-like look and performance while offering a different sustainability profile and better manufacturing consistency.
The best way companies can position INNOVERA to their customers “is to treat it as a serious engineered material for commercial applications, not just a novelty,” Williamson says. “Fabricators should understand the specific construction and finish they are using, validate it against the performance of the end application, and be clear about where it fits best.”
He also suggests staying “very practical” in conversations with customers; for example, highlighting that it’s an animal-free material that still delivers a leather-like experience. Be specific about the requirements it meets for the application. Do not make sweeping claims, and keep the discussion straightforward.
“Going forward, I think the market will reward materials that can do three things at once: perform well, integrate into existing supply chains and scale economically,” he says, adding that the positioning is moving away from “interesting alternative” toward “credible production material.”
Soy ‘cashmere’
Whether comprising the entire fabric or just a percentage of it, cashmere imparts a certain sumptuousness, raising the perceived value of items containing it. But when David Lee, founder, CEO and creative director of KD Knit Corp. in New York City, N.Y., began researching that fiber, he learned about its high cost on the environment and animals. While exploring more sustainable alternatives, soy protein fiber kept popping up as a substitute for animal-fiber cashmere. However, on its own, it wouldn’t deliver what Lee wanted.
Ultimately, the company — a provider of luxury active/athletic, leisure and lifestyle wear — ended up blending soy protein fiber with lyocell and cotton, creating the Vegetable Cashmere® fiber. Although KD Knit was founded in 2020, this latest innovation became commercially available in 2025, offered under the KD New York brand.
With the appearance and hand-feel of cashmere (although much less expensive, says Lee), it has greater tensile strength and durability, allowing the creation of a broader range of stitch structures. The fiber is machine-washable and moth-resistant, he says, adding the company’s claims are third-party verified.
The vertically integrated company has a manufacturing side where it can provide knitted panels or make the actual end product using whole-garment 3D knitting and a yarn side where fabricators and spinners can order the yarn and turn it into their own materials or finished items.
Working with Vegetable Cashmere is very similar to working with traditional versions, says Lee. Additionally, the product’s tensile strength results in improved material utilization, contributing to a price point that enables fabricators to reach more customers.
“But the key thing is, it gives them something to offer customers who care about animal welfare and environmental impact as well as those who can’t wear animal-based materials,” says Lee, predicting that interest in plant-based fibers will continue growing.
A layered approach
Constructed from plant-based and grain-based proteins combined with oils and bio-based elastomers, Uncaged Innovations’ ELEVATE material offers a non-animal, non-petroleum option to traditional leather and those alternative products still containing some level of plastics, says Stephanie Downs, co-founder and CEO of the biomaterials company. Headquartered in White Plains, N.Y., and established in 2020, Downs describes its approach as “rooted in biotechnology,” focused on developing high-performance, authentically sustainable materials without incorporating animals or fossil fuels.
“[ELEVATE] is composed of three layers: a plant-based fabric backing, a grain-protein-based core and a BioPU topcoat, making up less than 1% of the weight,” she explains. “The BioPU topcoat provides surface durability, protection and the aesthetic qualities you’d expect — things like abrasion resistance, water resistance and a constant finish.
“It’s designed to perform similarly to conventional PU,” Downs continues. “What’s important about the overall structure is that each layer is doing a specific job. That approach allows us to tune the material for different applications while maintaining consistency.”
Current applications include fashion and accessories, handbags, wallets, etc. — all areas where Downs says they’re experiencing strong demand for sustainable materials delivering performance, appearance and feel. She also sees good potential in automotive, upholstery and interior applications as well as expansion into categories where traditional leather or coated textiles are used.
“The long-term view is that this isn’t a niche material. It’s a platform that can be adapted across multiple industries,” says Downs, adding the material works within existing supply chains, encouraging adoption.
In addition to giving manufacturers a sustainable option to offer their customers, a primary advantage they’ll notice is that ELEVATE’s handling is similar to the conventional materials they’re used to working with. Also, the design allows it to integrate into their workflows, affording companies the ability to expand their businesses without having to significantly change their operations, says Downs.
Looking ahead, Downs anticipates continued growth and demand.“[This] is driven by a combination of factors: consumer awareness, brand commitments around sustainability and increasing regulatory pressure,” she says. “Over time, I expect alternative materials to become more normalized, not a separate category but part of the standard materials toolkit across industries.”
Pamela Mills-Senn is a Seal Beach, Calif.-based freelance writer.