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Water-repellent textile finish research uses cottonseed oil

Swatches | December 2, 2025 | By:

The composite image contains four images, in two rows. The top row shows a water droplet under a microscope that is soaking into the fabric. The bottom row shows a water droplet staying fully formed on the surface of the fabric and not soaking in.
Untreated cotton fabric absorbs water droplets (top), and cotton fabric treated with a form of cottonseed oil repels water (bottom). Image: American Chemical Society/Richard Venditti

Much work in the textile industry is happening regarding removing PFAS and formaldehyde from finishes to create greener alternatives.

North Carolina State University (NC State) researchers have created a polymer finish by inserting bio-based epoxy groups into cottonseed oil to create epoxidized cottonseed oil (ECSO). The bio-based polymer finish bonds strongly with cotton’s cellulose fibers, making the fabric wrinkle-resistant and water-repellent.

Future studies will measure additional performance factors in ECSO-treated cotton fabric, including tear strength, durability and wrinkle resistance, and, says lead researcher Richard Venditti, “oil-in-water emulsions and other catalysts.” Venditti is a professor of forest biomaterials, paper science and engineering at NC State.

“If we can achieve our goal of changing the properties of the cotton fabric—making it anti-wrinkle, anti-staining and water-resistant—using a water-based process, we’ll have a green process for putting a bio-based material onto cotton as a replacement for formaldehyde- and PFAS-based finishes,” says Venditti in a release about the work.

The research drew on previous NC State research into cottonseed oil and was presented at the fall meeting of the American Chemical Society in August. It was funded by Cotton Incorporated and an Agriculture and Food Research Initiative from the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s National Institute of Food and Agriculture.

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